In the beauty industry, all hair dyes are divided into four groups.
I group of dyes for hair. These include lighting and blending dyes.
The effect of the 1st group dye on hair: clarification by 3 or more tons due to oxidation and removal of the natural pigment melanin from the hair. Dyes for the hair of the І-th group have in their composition a large amount of ammonia and work with the use of hydrogen peroxide.
RN - dye medium is high-alkaline.
To dyes for hair of the І-th group include bleaching and clarifying preparations. They consist of two components: powder and oxidizer (or clarifying paste and oxidizer). With these dyes, you can perform the following operations:
- lightening of hair;
-blocking hair;
- Lightening of individual hair bands (highlighting);
-change of hair color (for example, from dark-blond to light-brown color);
- washing of the previous paint (decoupage or bonding wash);
-grinding gray and dark hair for further use of light chemical dyes.
Discoloration of the hair is the complete destruction (dissolution) of the natural pigment of the hair, as a result of which the hair becomes blond. But there are many controversial issues on this issue. There is a theory that the pigment, supposedly not destroyed, but simply becomes lighter. But this is still no one has proved.
All the dyes of the first group are applied to dry unwashed hair by analogy with chemical dyes and for the same technology. The heating cap is not used. The roots of the hair lighten faster than the ends thanks to the heat that comes from the scalp. Therefore, if the hair is stained for the first time, then the composition is applied over the entire length, retreating 1,5 - 2 cm. From the roots of the hair, and then after 10-20 minutes and on the roots themselves.
In the case of 3-5 lengths (from 15 cm.), It is desirable to lighten all the hair on the foil, while retreating from the roots 2-3 cm. The fact is that on long hair, lightening occurs unevenly. The ends are more difficult to brighten and are always darker than the roots and the middle of the length of the hair. After lightening the entire mass of hair to the required level, the ends are lightened. The time of aging of the composition on the hair depends on the desired color or the desired degree of lightening of the hair. Usually, the exposure time does not exceed 50 minutes. It is necessary to pay constant attention to the process of lightening the hair in order to prevent excessive damage to the hair scales.
For staining of overgrown roots, the coloring composition should be applied first for 10-15 minutes to the roots, and then combed and applied additionally throughout the entire length.
If the hair was previously drawn or dyed with chemical preparations in light colors, the composition is first applied to the roots, and then after 10 minutes, it is applied over the entire length of the hair.
If the bonding or lightening of the hair is done to lighten the hair for a few tones, then you need to take into account that natural light blondes are best lightened, which have any degree of lightness of light brown but also have an ashy tinge. Natural brown, red and chestnut hair after clearing acquire a rusty yellow color, which is eliminated with the use of light dyes.
II group of dyes for hair. These are permanent chemical dyes. This group of chemical dyes, which consist of two components: paint and oxidizer (oxidant or hydrogen peroxide). Permanent paints contain ammonia and are mixed with hydrogen peroxide. The molecules of this group of dyes are immediately small and colorless, but under the action of active oxygen (from peroxide) they acquire a color, and at the same time they strongly coalesce (polymerize). As a result, we get a persistent color.
The effect of the dye on the hair: the hair color changes by penetrating the dye molecule into the hair. Natural melanin is partially oxidized, and as a result, we get a lightning background up to 3 tons. The composition of the dye includes a small amount of ammonia, dye, which work with the addition of oxides.
PH-medium of the dye of group II is alkaline.
Dyes of this group are intended for:
1.The coloring of gray hair (up to 100%).
2. Changing hair color.
In this group it is worth noting one more variant of paints - these are zam mia paints that have the ability to lighten hair. They work as permanent paints, but instead of ammonia, they contain ethanolamine in their composition. The addition of ethanolamine makes it possible to obtain a hair dye free from an unpleasant odor. Usually, the percentage of peroxide is the same.
Staining, oxidation is the result of the position of the color, the background of clarification and the color of the dye. When staining hair, such oxidizers are traditionally used:
-1.5%, -1.9% or -2.1% - are used for toning or "semi-permanent" staining (sometimes stylists permanent (ammonia) coloration on low oxidants is called "semi-permanent", although this is somewhat contrary to its definition;
-3% (10 vol) - used to lighten hair for 1 ton, coloring tone to tone and darker;
-6% (20vol) - used to lighten the hair for 2 tones, lighten the hair to 5 tons with powder, color tone to tone, to color the gray hair, stain in dark tones;
-9% (30vol) - lightens the hair for 2-3 tons, up to 5-7 tons using powder;
-12% (40vol) - for super clarifying points 10-12 levels of tone level.
The designation 10 vol, 20 vol, 30 vol, 40 vol is a chemical-physical indicator of the oxidizer, which denotes the volume of oxygen released as a result of the chemical reaction of hydrogen peroxide. The time of exposure of the hair on the hair directly depends on the amount of oxygen released. The liberated oxygen is very active and has the ability to lighten the pigment of the hair, thereby preparing them for staining with an artificial pigment. Chemical dyes have bright shimmering shades, well paint over the gray hair.
Also to this group of dyes for hair include mix tons of various firms. They are designed to correct the color nuance and are added to the dye.
III group of dyes for hair. These include temporary toning dyes for hair. Temporary dyes do not contain ammonia in their composition, so they dye their hair superficially. The dyes of the III group do not require an allergy test, they are easy to apply, they give shine and tone to the hair.
The effect of the dye: it envelops the hair from the outside, does not react with melanin, the background of clarification does not get. As part of the dye, there is no ammonia, but its substitute may be contained.
The pH of the dye varies from slightly alkaline to acidic.
The dyes of Group III are of two types:
1. Demi (semi-permanent) dyes for hair. Depermantnoe coloring of hair is still known as coloring "tone in tone". This method of coloring adds color to the hair, without lightening them. These tools work by penetrating the pigment into the hair and giving it new shades. These products are ideal for moderately emphasizing the natural color of hair, as well as for covering the first gray hair. These dyes are mixed with an activator (oxidizer) containing peroxide in the concentration range of 1.5-4% (there are more), the color usually lasts 3-4 weeks. These dyes do not contain ammonia, but they have a weakly alkaline medium, so they contain an ammonia derivative, ethanolamine. The size of the dye molecule is small at once, and the molecule is colorless. When mixed with peroxide, a reaction is triggered, as a result of which the pigment molecules coalesce and acquire color. Enlargement is weaker than in permanent dyes. The paint works with the front layers of the cortex layer of hair, so it creates a more persistent color.
2. Seven (physical) dyes for hair. This group includes foams, gels, coloring shampoos, balms, paints of direct staining (with applicator), etc. And so on ... These dyes work independently, can be washed off after the first washing of hair, can after a few ... Seven dyes for hair - this is a reasonable choice for those who first decided to change the color of their hair. These simple, ready-to-use remedies are gradually washed off with shampoo and completely disappear after 6-12 head washes. They do not contain ammonia or hydrogen peroxide, the substances most commonly found in hair dye products. As a rule, the means of seven permanent staining only emphasize, strengthen the natural color of the hair, making it brighter, more saturated, but without lightening the hair. The advantages of these drugs are that they do not give dark roots and cover up to 50% of gray hair.
The size of the dye molecule is small and the molecule is immediately colored. Slightly loosens the structure of the hair, and the dye penetrates slightly over the cuticle layer. Colorants of this group are allergens and require a test for individual dye tolerability.
All dyes of Group III are applied to clean damp hair. Such a dye can neither be lightened nor repainted. The color is stored 10-20 washes.
To the great regret by toning balls and foams, ridiculous colors, tonics it is impossible to paint over the saddle. These dyes do not enter into a chemical reaction with keratin, but only slightly change the hue of the hair (nuance occurs).
Dye particles penetrate into the depth of the hair, filling themselves, as well as enveloping the outer scaly layer. The color stability depends on their structure. For example, the best result is obtained by staining soft, porous hair. Rigid, slightly porous hair is less amenable to staining, and their resistance is much lower.
Tinting or toning paints use dyes
The action of dyes: particles of plants when staining hair clog the space between the scales of hair.
Natural colorants do not change the color of hair radically, they only give the hair a certain shade, so if you want to slightly adjust the hair color, you can safely use them. If your task is a cardinal color change, then it is better to use synthetic paints.
Natural dyes are recommended for use on natural hair, where there are no traces of a chemical wave or any color. Natural dyes do not cause any damage to the hair, on the contrary, they give the natural hair color shine, silky and various shades, thanks to the mixing of some preparations.
The main advantage of the group IV dyes is the preservation of beautiful and healthy hair. But, despite many positive qualities, natural dyes can not keep their original color for several weeks. After the next washing of the hair, the part of the pigment is washed naturally, therefore, to keep the desired hair color, the dyes must be used constantly, for example, every time after washing the head as a hair conditioner.
All dyes of vegetable origin are applied to clean and damp hair using a sponge, a brush or a cotton swab.
In order to obtain a uniform color, the percentage of gray hair, natural color, and individual hair characteristics should be taken into account. Thin and rare hair is colored with natural dyes faster and requires less paint. Thick, thick, long, hard-to-dye hair requires a longer exposure and more natural dye.
When you start painting your hair with a natural dye, do not forget to put on your overcoat or peignoir of glue or polyethylene, put on rubber gloves. Hair at the same time, divide into separations and grease with natural paint from the roots to the tips. As the hair grows, paint only the roots. Such dyes are used only on natural hair, where there are no traces of a perm or traces of any paint. Natural dyes are also used for medicinal purposes. They give the natural color of hair shine, silky and also different shades. A natural dye can not remove the color for several weeks.
Groups of dyes for hair
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